Stabroek Market
By Lloyd Kandasammy
Markets have existed from the earliest days of civilization, where buyers and sellers interact daily. Continuously dictated by evolving economic factors, the markets of Georgetown continue to resist the threat of the modern supermarket and malls.
Bearing the former name of Georgetown, which was named by the Dutch in honour of the director of the Dutch West India Company; Nicholas Van Gleenisnk, Lord of Castricum, Bahim and Stabroek, when they regained possession of the Colonies from the English on September 4th 1784, Stabroek market will celebrate her two hundredth birthday on November 1st 2001.
The present market is the third market and the second Stabroek Market. Thefirst market did not exist until 1792 and was not located at the present site. Before 1792, slaves were given permission by the Court of Policy to sell their products on Sundays, which consisted of plantains and other staple foods.
Though this is the first official reference to the market, it is possible that indigenous Indians and slaves may have operated little markets, though not legally, along the banks of the Brandwaght which was erected by the Dutch to secure the activities of the river.
The Essequibo Ordinance of 1765, which prohibited the interaction between the sailors and the indigenous Indians and the slaves indicates that trading of goods was practiced, not hard to imagine a sailor tempted by fresh eggs and fruit after a long journey with a diet of biscuit and salted beef.
The first market was located slightly west of the present site of the St. Andrews Church, opposite the present site of the Parliament building, which housed the Court of policy and church on Sundays. However, due to the loud noise of persons selling and the disturbance of Church services, the market was removed in 1793 to the present site of Smith Church, and then to several other areas along the banks of the river. However, these new sites were unsuccessful and the market soon returned to its original location. There appeared to be very little law and order as Henry Bolingbroke, upon his arrival to the colony in 1799 provides a very interesting description.
" There is a market place where the Negroes assemble to sell their truck such as fruits, vegetables, fowls and eggs and where hucksters expose for sale, articles of European manufacture,in addition to salt beef, pork, fish, cheese, pipes, tobacco and other articles. Hucksters are women of colour who purchase their commodities from merchants at two or three months credit and retail them out in the same manner. Many of them are indeed wealthy and possess ten, fifteen and twenty Negroes, all of whom they employ in this trade."
With the rapid growth of the city and hence the growth of commerce, the area became congested and unsightly. It was thus decided that a proper market should be erected. With the establishment of the office of a Mayor and Town Council, on March 1st, 1842, regulations were passed on April 23rd 1843 allowing the council to secure a loan of $50,000.00 payable on redeemable bonds to erect a proper building for the operation of a market, which was " currently operated in inadequate spaces".
Thus the first structure was officially designated as the first market of the city of Georgetown. Constructed of local hardwood, the market was described as " the best in the West Indies". A visitor in 1851, described the new market as " as a sight which a European might walk some distance to see" noting the mingling of sailors, merchants, clerks, porters and butchers. Through a system of rental of stalls, the council derived revenue and repaid the loan in a few short years.
In 1870, noting the congestion of the area and the growth of commercial Activity, Councillor Francis Conjers, then a town councillor for ward two of Georgetown, proposed that a market be constructed to cover the entire site of the existing market. That proposal was soon changed for the construction of a new market twice the size of the existing structure.
In 1879 a committee consisting His Worship the Mayor G. A Forshaw, B. S. Bayley, J.C Whitehead, H.S Sprotson Innis, Mr. Conjers and Luke M. Hill the
Town Superintendent was appointed to examine and approve plans submitted by the prospective construction agencies through a system of tenders. The companies interested in the construction of the new market had to submit plans and proposals to the Mayor and Town Council in care of the committee complete with budgets and plans of construction.
On July 29th, 1879, the committee submitted its report to the Mayor and Town Council. It noted that a total of six plans had been submitted; these included two by the Edge Moor Iron Company of Philadelphia, U. S. A. And one by the Clark Reeves Company represented by agent Mr. Nathaniel McKay, one by Sam Woodhall, one by Henry Rogers Sons & company represented by the agent McFan Trotters Haldings and one by Peter Mc Lellaw.
In its report the committee noted the estimates provided in each of the tenders submitted, they were:
The Edge Moor Iron Company Plan A $ 132, 855.00
The Edge Moor Iron Company Plan B $ 103,759.00
Samuel Woodhall $ 80, 473.60
Peter Mc Lellaw $ 68, 735.00
Each of these figures included the freight and the erection of the building in the colony of British Guiana. Despite the considerably high cost of construction, the committee recommended to the Council the Plan A by the Edge Moor Iron Company. The plan was modified at the request of the committee and was favored on an " account of its foundation and ornamental appearance and very perfect system of ventilation in the roof the alter being especially suited for the tropical climate."
They noted the increased cost of the plan was, " due to the fact that the entire structure was made of wrought iron, including columns, plans are also of cast iron and also that the total weight of the iron far exceeds that of the other designs submitted." The plans submitted for the company on behalf of Mr. McKay also provided for the personal supervision of the manufacturing and the erection of the building as, " The other tendencies also offer to erect the building, but they require payments to be made in such a manner as that the whole amount would be paid before the building was shipped or erected, where as Mr. McKay is willing so as to arrange the payments to them only a small proportion should be paid before the building was completed and handed over to the cooperation
*** second part
On July 30th, 1879 a second letter was forwarded to the Council, one day before the committee was scheduled to meet and vote for or against the recommendations made. The agent outlined the willingness to have whatever alterations the Council handed in order to have their plans approved.
Despite these objections the amended plan A of the Edge Moor iron Company for $132, 855.00 was accepted on July 31st, 1879. The honorable Mr. Dupsdale moved that the motion be accepted and this was seconded by Mr. Ritcher, four members of the committee: Mr. Bayley, Mr. Whitehead, Mr. Sprotson, Mr. Ritcher and The Mayor G. A Forshaw voted in favor of the plan, Mr. Conjers voted against and Mr. Innis declined to vote.
In the approval of this plan it was observed that an additional $75,000.00 would be needed to finance the construction of the new market. The mayor and Town Clerk were " appointed a committee for the application tot he Governor and Court of Policy praying for the additional loan of $75,000.00 to carry out the scheme." Furthermore, the town clerk was to " inform Mr. McKay that his tender plan A is accepted, and that the petition for the additional loan being granted." The town clerk was also directed to for all legal proceedings for a contract between the Council and Mr. McKay.
On Tuesday, August 5th, 1879 the Mayor Mr. G. A Forshaw was authorized " to sign and secure a contract between Mr. Nathaniel Mckay and the Council for the erection of a Georgetown market house.
On August 17th, 1879 the leveling of the foundation of the river wall at Stabroek commenced. Initially the government had agreed to build a portion of the wall but the Edge Moor Iron Company had to execute this task of reclaiming wall on the southern boundary of the market as well as on the orthern side, a total of 175 feet in length. The building of the wall, to reclaim a portion of the rivers' foreshore to the extent of 50,000 square feet had to be completed before the foundation of the market could be laid.
This resulted in the cost rising as high as $236,000.00.
On November 7th, 1879, the plans for the foundation of the market were handed over to the city council. Mr. McKay was paid $25,000.00 under the provision of the contract between himself and the Council.
On February 5th 1880, under the supervision of the Town superintendent Mr. Luke M. Hill the construction of the market began. Mrs. Kortwright, wife of the Governor Cornelius H. Kortwright, laid the foundation stone of the new market, with the inscription "A.D 1880, G.A. Forshaw, Mayor Stabroek market" on July 17th, 1880. It is deposited under the north east column of the building: and in a cavity within it is placed a zinc canister containing the original of this document, impressed with the seal of the cooperation, several coins of the realm, the latest copies of the Royal Gazette and the 'Colonist newspaper'. On July 26th, 1880 under ordinance No. 13 the Council were given a loan of $ 75,000. *
The market was completed and declared open on November 1st 1880 by the Governor.
" The market was opened this morning without any ceremony what so ever, the only signs of festivity being the flags disposed about the buildings and on the stalls. In the course of the day however a band of music made its appearance and discoursed sweet strains of music to the intense satisfaction of the mob, which had gathered. Some ladies keeping their stalls forgot their dignified station so far as to indulge.. The carousel representing the Steam Baking Company performing a ' pan Seoul' in a manner which excited universal applause."
The original plans of Mc Kay differed greatly from that of the presentmarket. One example of such is the shed that runs horizontally along the side of the bell tower, his plans had stipulated a classic Tudor cast iron balcony extending from one side to another. However these were substituted for the sheds as a result of financial constraints of the council.
Almost anything can be purchased inside the market as one West Indian politician stated, " the only thing missing is a church". The diversity of commodities sold in the market is as a result of the councils decision in 1980, when several stall owners wrote letters asking that they," be allowed to sell other items as the economic circumstances of the time made it difficult for them to acquire enough money to pay for the rental of their stalls."
Covering an area of 76,728 square feet: length 278 square feet and width 276 square feet, the wharf or pier is 23, 236 square feet: length 157 square feet and width 148 square feet. The structure may be the largest public market in the Caribbean and certainly ranks among the world's largest all metal markets.
The markets highly mix of Tudor and gothic architecture, which developed in the late 15th and 16th centuries, incorporated elements onto the perpendicular gothic style. This phase of architecture is most distinctive to be considered a separate period in the history of English building types.
The prominent characteristics of the complex roof with many gables, the lavish use of half timber work, imitated in metal, most evident in the clock tower and frequently used cornices are all evident, expressed in ' pierced metal work over a skeleton or rolled and riveted or steel Girders," of the market, exterior.
Initially the market was an enormous shed, iron railings from the ground to the roof were added in 1931,to prevent theft and birds mainly carrion crows from entering the market s eating the meat of the butchers. The entire structure is pre- fabricated and was made in Philadelphia before being shipped and assembled in British Guiana. The building frames were fabricated from sections, rolled into shape by ingots of hot steel with the application of the 'Bessemer process' the first method found for mass producing steel by Henry Bessemer in 1865. These hot rolled steel sections are standardized in shape and dimensions, to give greater strength and durability. In the case of Stabroek these were built in the shape of an I to permit greater stiffness and longer spans. The Girders used are connected through the use of a headed pin or bolt [rivets] used as a means of permanent fastening.
The Stabroek market imposing four-dialed clock was ordered from the E. Howard Company of Boston, Massacheutus on July 1st, 1880. The clock resides some sixty feet above the ground in its main tower, located centrally above the main entrance of the market. The white painted sheet iron dials are each 12 feet in diameter. Three are aligned with a grid pattern of the streets of the city and the other gives time to t shipping at the docks on the Demerara River flowing along the markets west facade.
The weight driven clock mechanism was designed to operate for up to eight days between windings and permitted the hours and half hours to be struck on a large steel bell exposed on the top of the tower beneath a canopy. The clock is housed within a well built wooden structure in the middle of the markets tower some 20 feet below the center dials. The weights are led over pulleys to descend through the tower's two southern columns.
The mechanism is divided into two gear trains, one within the upright frame for timekeeping, and the other set out horizontally on top of the base to govern the striking of the bell. The time keeping train is fitted with a Graham pattern dead beat escapement regulated by a pendulum beating once every second. The pendulum has a wooden rod and a cylindrical cast iron bob.
An automatic maintaining power device protects the teeth of the escapement while the clock is being wound. The striking rein uses Howard's own design of the rack striking system to sound the hours and half hours. The clocks leading off work that transfers motion from the mechanism to the four dials uses a different gear train lodged in a wooden chest some twenty feet above the clocks housing.
The bell for the Stabroek Market is of cast steel and was made in Sheffield, England. Due to its size it is classed as a one-ton bell, but the actual weight is not known. Suspended by a yoke bolted onto four hanging rods secured to the main frame of the tower, the bell is surrounded by a large steel hammer mounted on a wooden stand on the west side of the bell. This hammer is directly connected to the clock mechanism by a single wire linkage, which alternately lifts and releases it to sound the bell.
As was typical of most public buildings this wind vane is located at the top of the bell tower, though very ornamental in appearance this was used as a guide to the winds direction, visible from three streets of the city as well as the Demerara River.
Guyana Chronicle
October 28, 2001
Another advantage noted was the resistance of a metal structure to thepossible damage by a fire. On September 8th 1828 and on December 29th, 1864 fires had destroyed large sections of the city and the vulnerability of a wooden structure was observed. The agent for Sam Woodhall and Mc Fan Trotters & Holdings objected to the recommendations of the committee. On July 30th, 1879 a letter was forwarded to the Town Council requesting that the plans submitted by Sam Woodhall be considered. The availability of Mr. Woodhall to superintend the construction of the market and the credibility of the architect Mr. Skekel, who had designed a number of buildings and structure in the colony of British Guiana, including: Messrs Booker Brothers & Company stores, The Cimburatum buildings of Messrs s barbers Company, the new engine at Plantation Lusignan and the Commodeus new wharves at La penitence were given as reasons for the re consideration of the committees recommendations.