Indian Jewellery In Guyana
by Evelyne Rayman
From the time of pre-historic Indian the adornment of the body became an integral part of Indian tradition for men, women and children. Evidence of this has been found at Harappa (circa 3500 BC) and Mohenjo-Daro (circa 3000 BC) where jewellery made from beads of pottery, carnelian, silver or gold was excavated. Detailed descriptions of jewellery were given in ancient Indian literature. The Vedas mention gold and silver ornaments and in the Ramayana, Sita’s cloth of gold saris are described in detail. The code of Manu gives a list of jewellery to be worn on stated occasions and early Sanskrit texts on Astrology define gems and their subtle powers. The great poet Kalidasa gives delightful descriptions of human figure enhanced by Jewels and the the ancient sculptures from Orissa and Sanchi show bejewelled gods and goddesses. Flowers were also used as jewellery and the Indian woman, particularly in South India, still decorates her hair with flowers. Throughout the years, royalty amassed fortunes in jewellery while even the poorest people had ornaments of seeds, bones, ivory and base metal. It is from this rich tradition of religion, custom and culture that the indentured labourer brought Indian jewellery to the Colony of British Guiana. In 1838, the first indentured ‘coolies’ (the word for labourer in the East that became derogatory in the West) arrived in British Guiana to work on the sugar plantations. The Whitby was the first ship to arrive from Indian with 249 immigrants in the ratio of three women to 100 men. There seems to be no record of what possessions the indentured labourer brought, but undoubtedly some jewellery may have come with those who were on the first ship, for in those days, Indian men wore tabiz (amulets), karas (bangles), bazubands (armlets) and barig (earrings). Married women would have had jewellery as is traditional. Unmarried girls wore very little jewellery because it was immodest for them to attract attention and newborn children were given bangles and earrings as custom demanded. Peasant wives wore heavy silver jewellery and some pieces such as churs (wide bracelets), haslis (neck rings), karas (heavy foot rings) and naths (nose rings) were never removed. Whatever discomfort there was in wearing these pieces to bed and work was discounted, for they were a woman’s wealth and only in rare circumstances, would they be sold. As the years passed, the exploited labourer, with diligence and frugality, saved his money and invested in land, cattle and jewellery. Jewellery is still a tradition as gifts in all weddings. It was a part of the tilak (dowry) and was also the Indian way of banking. Jewellery was also a means of providing collateral for loans. For instance, when the planting of rice began, jewellery could be taken to the pawnbrokers who were predominantly of Portuguese origin and were immigrants who had fulfilled their indentureship. Money was borrowed against the jewellery for the planting or harvesting of rice or other transactions. Indian weddings were great festive occasions. Women wearing saris or long gangaris (full skirts), colourful julas (bodices) and ornis (three yard white veils) would be bedecked with sirbandis, mara matis, jhoomars (head ornaments), baris, karanphool, jumka, tanman (earrings), naths (nose studs and nose rings), rakhau (stud of silver or gold fixed in the front teeth), chandahars, tillarys (necklaces), kanthis (necklace of gold sovereigns or five shilling pieces on black cord), karas (bangles), churs (wide bracelets), kukru baras (hollow bangles), bazubands (armlets), tabiz (armlets), challa and mundri (rings), karas (foot rings) and bichwas (toe rings). Another important event for Indians was the Port Mourant Horse Races. On these occasions, the women wore glittering jewellery and clothing in vibrant colours accented with the stunning magenta dear to the Indian heart. Men also wore their best. There is no date of the arrival of the first goldsmiths who came with simple instruments and small blowpipes with which they fashioned intricate pieces of jewellery. The craft was passed on from father to son and training was done in the workshop. Gold and silver jewellery was polished by hand and when necessary, faceting (diamond cut) added brilliance to the piece. Delicate filigree jewellery and the art of granulation (tiny grains of gold soldered for decoration), said to be lost for many years in Europe, remained part of their craftsmanship. Indian jewellery and goldsmiths made an impact in all other communities. Raymond Smith, a sociologist, in his book British Guiana, states, “Goldsmiths abound and again much of their work is in producing the bracelets, rings, necklaces, and earrings which form a part of the traditional marriage gifts. But their work is also in great demand among non-Indians and it has become customary throughout the whole population for engagements to be marked by the presentation of bracelets, necklaces, and earrings as well as the normal engagement ring. The quality of gold and silver-work is sometimes quite good." For many years, gold jewellery was made from English gold sovereigns and from gold panned by pork-knockers (pan handlers). In most cases 22 or 18 carat, or sometimes 15 carat gold was used, as Indians had a high respect for unalloyed gold. It was not until after the 1940s that lower carats of gold were used. Silver, like gold, is too soft in its natural form to be useful for jewellery and it is usually alloyed with copper or zinc. However, in the early years much of the silver jewellery was made from the Victorian five shilling coin which was of very high silver content. In the early 1950s, men travelled throughout the country buying silver jewellery for $5.00 per pound for export. Silver was used for commerce and the legal and medical professions but gold jewellery took the place of silver. Also, the young people in the country areas were moving away from old customs and the traditional Indian silver jewellery did not fit in with the creolization of dress. This jewellery is difficult to find and is much sought after by those who appreciate antiques. Those who are fortunate to own some of the traditional pieces of silver or gold jewellery should treasure them as heirlooms to bequeathed to their descendants as part of the history of Guyana.
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