The water of the river changes colour from a sandy brown to black. Few villagers in their canoes paddling slowly up river extended a friendly hello to the team from the National Trust of Guyana that visited the area recently.

Established by the Dutch, Fort Nassau is located about 88km upstream from New Amsterdam on the eastern bank of the Berbice River. On a good day, it can take about 2 1/2 hours to arrive at the former capital of the Berbice colony.

The journey up the Berbice River is calm and quiet, save for the humming of the boat’s engine and the occasional screams of the parrots and various species of birds that hover overhead with curious eyes at the intruders to their jewelled wilderness.

Dutch occupation in the West Indies has its roots in the war with Spain, which started in 1568 and lasted for 80 years. Seven northern Spanish-Netherlands provinces united and attacked the Spanish-ruled targets in the West Indies and Europe. It was during these years the colony of Berbice was established. A Dutch merchant, Abraham Van Peere, established the first settlement in 1627.

Very little is known of the activities at this settlement, but an account by Adrian Van Berkel in 1670 indicates that the colonists dwelt at their own plantations rather than at the centralised settlement: there seems to have been little to Fort Nassau other than its fort, commanders house and its accompanying citrus groves.

The settlement at Fort Nassau enjoyed a rather precarious existence as the latter years of the 17th and 18th century were characterised by warfare. The Berbice settlements were first plundered by the French pirate Du Casse in 1689; the fort was captured by Jacques Cassard in 1713. In 1763, Fort Nassau and its environs saw the earliest stirring of Guyana’s independence. A slave revolt led by Cuffy, with its origins in the east, extended westward and captured the settlement. The Dutch destroyed the fort as they fled north to Fort Sr. Andries. However, there can be little doubt that confidence in the security of the site was shaken and no doubt at all that its fabric suffered badly.

A flock of birds fly overhead interrupting the author’s reflections of Berbice and its rich history. As the team approached, the distinctive signs of the National Trust demarcating this National Monument appeared in the clearing along the eastern bank of the river.

Fort Nassau consists of 166 acres. Following the caretakers, the team was led on a tour of the area, Among the lush vegetation there are many sites of interest. These include that of what is reported to be the first Lutheran Church in Berbice.

There are two grave plots. There are five gravestones in the first grave plot, located to the western end of the site. The rectangular enclosure of this plot measures 20 x10 metres. The five gravestones mark the graves of La Sabloniere (the Governor of Berbice immediately after the 1763 slave revolt), and relatives of other senior officials dated between 1771 and 1789.

The second grave plot located at the eastern end of the settlement, near the Torani Creek was probably of persons of relatively less importance. This is evident in the rather plain appearance of the gravestones. There are four graves, two of which are constructed of bricks. One of the graves is that of a four-year-old child. Another lies opened, possibly as a result of the works of vandals scouting for the fabled Dutch wealth.

Four semi-circular steps are the only remnants of the building that once housed the seat of government for the colony of Berbice. Historians suggest that this was the site where Cuffy held court in 1763. The site measures about 25m north to south. It is most likely that this was the site of the Court of Assembly.

Located at the northern end of the site are the remains of a small brick bridge aligned throughout the settlement. Evidence from the remains suggests that three structural arches supported the bridge over the culvert. The bridge measured about 12m wide, and is about 2.2m long.

Also regarded as the `Barracks’ and the `Garrison’ are the most preserved features on the site. Built by the Dutch government, the building was converted by the British into a Barrack as the settlement was being abandoned.

There are fragments of pottery, bricks and bottles scattered throughout the site. If the mystique of Fort Nassau’s history is not enough to entice one to visit, then the richness of Mother Nature should leave you breathless.

The lush vegetation has created a paradise for wildlife. It is not uncommon to see birds such as parrots, macaws and hawks during one’s hike. Additionally, many species of flowers adorn the trail, but the `Talking Tree’ is perhaps the most attractive feature that Mother Nature has to offer along the trail of Fort Nassau.

The beauty of Nassau will leave you breathless.

The National Trust encourages you to visit this National Monument. It is an important part of our rich heritage. However, please remember to be careful at all times, this will aid our efforts to conserve and preserve the area for the future generations. (National Trust of Guyana)

For further information, kindly contact the National Trust of Guyana on telephone number 2255071 or by email at nationaltrust@solutions2000.net