Norwegian recalls his epic Trans-Atlantic voyage
‘I am a kid that never grew up’
By Nigel Williams
Stabroek News
November 16, 2002
Norwegian rower Dr Stein Hoff says he will hang up his oars following his epic 4260-mile voyage across the Atlantic Ocean from Portugal to Guyana in a 20-foot boat.
Hoff who came ashore at Parika on Thursday after heavy tides had pulled his boat the Star Atlantic II from Georgetown told Stabroek News yesterday he has now achieved one of his life’s desires and it was time for him to turn to other needs such as his family.
The 57-year-old physician recalled his departure from Lisbon over 3 months ago:
“When I set off on August 10 I had contrary winds, but I was determined, with all those people there I was not going to change my mind.”
“It was a very windy morning in Lisbon, Portugal when my boat which is made of plywood and strengthened with fibre glass set sail in the Atlantic.”
The boat is 7.1 metres long and 2 metres wide with a net weight of about 400 kilos. But Hoff said when he set off it was laden with some 800 kilos in supplies.
He said the boat has a small cabin which is about 2 metres long. Equipment for the boat was quite complex and because it was a long voyage he had on board communication, navigation and safety equipment. There were also fittings for generating electricity from solar cells, batteries for power to run his navigation, communication equipment and also his satellite telephone. He said he also had on board a water maker, which makes potable water from seawater and a lap top computer so he could write his journal.
In terms of food, Hoff said he used a lot of freeze dried food, cereal, corn, corn nuts and fruit mixes which he is very fond of since he does not use milk.
He would normally add water to the fruit mixes and the cereal and heat it for about ten minutes.
He recalled it was very difficult at the beginning of the journey, since he was not accustomed to rowing for so many hours. “So I had a real hard job rowing from Lisbon to a small village which took me several hours and then I was going against the wind.”
He said on that first day he halted for a little while in the ocean, ate something and then went again. For that first day alone he had cause to use his anchor about four times because of strong winds which threatened to overturn his boat.
Asked what motivated him to undertake the journey, Hoff responded by saying,” well I rowed since I was a boy about 17 and I did a few courses and later competitive rowing at University where I gained recognition.”
Hoff rowed for Scotland where he lived for a short while and also for his own country. He still competes in veteran rowing in Norway. Another factor that motivated him to undertake the journey is the fact that he has sailed a lot and loves the ocean. He once rowed from Lisbon to Barbados some five years ago with a friend.
His daughter Elisabeth also attempted the feat but unfortunately her boat capsized ten days into the journey; luckily she survived. He said had Elisabeth completed the journey she would have been the first woman to row across the Atlantic alone. But her mother, Diana Hoff took it upon herself to do what her daughter failed to do and rowed from Lisbon to Barbados in 1999 taking 131 days.
Hoff said after seeing his wife complete that feat all by herself he felt that it was time he did the same.
Asked to describe himself, Hoff replied, “I suppose I am a kid that never grew up.”
He says he refused to let age stop him from doing whatever he feels capable of doing in life, adding that he likes to think he can do challenging things even though he would have aged a bit. “And I think that I have proven that. If you train and look after your health and nutrition and don’t abuse your body you can have a lot of reserves.”
Hoff and Diana have been married for 34 years now after first meeting at a rowing club in Norway.
They both later studied at the same university, Hoff pursuing studies in medical science while Diana opted for ophthalmology.
The veteran rower said the most memorable moment of his 96-day journey was on Thursday when he arrived at Parika to a rousing welcome from curious Guyanese.
Hoff said there were many other highlights: “When I felt that I was so privileged to be out there with the beautiful sunsets and sunrises. Lots of dolphins and whales swimming to the corner of my boat...”
According to the rower, one day he watched in awe as a newborn dolphin hung to his mother.
Hoff said there had been a few bad moments, but at no point did he feel like quitting or regretted that he had undertaken the journey. “Low points... I had a few low points when the weather was very uncomfortable - winds that were beating me, high waves.”
Hoff remembered on the 44th day of his journey he encountered his worst experience on the sea.” I remembered one night while sitting in front of my computer writing a letter when a huge wave suddenly hit the side of the boat which caused everything in the boat to scatter on the floor.”
He said a lot of water flooded into the boat soaking all of his rations.
According to him had the boat been hit again with a similar wave he reckoned that he might have perished. He said from that day he took more care with his rations and was always on the lookout for a recurrence.
He said being out in the ocean is a medicine to him, since it provides him with the opportunity to get away from the business of life. He said the reason why he chose to end his journey in Guyana is because he had wanted to row from Europe to South America and for his own convenience the only English speaking country in South America is Guyana.
“Also you are conveniently located to the north east corner. Venezuela, I did not fancy it because they are Spanish and the Orinoco River I felt that it would have given me trouble, but your three rivers aren’t any problem.”
Further he said he also chose Guyana because he has a lot of Guyanese friends from his years of living in Barbados.
“My Guyanese friends always talking about the lush and beautiful country where infrastructure is not up to scratch and political climate is not friendly.”
Hoff said during the last 24 hours of his journey the waves were very strong and accompanied by gusty winds, but he prayed for safe keeping.
The Norwegian said now that he has accomplished the feat he would quit ocean rowing.
“My next move will be to look after my family better for the next two months. I know they were fascinated with my letters while on the sea and they all would be looking forward to see me.”
His wife who arrived in Guyana yesterday too late to be part of the welcoming party at Parika said she was very pleased with the reception she had received from tourism officials.
Diana who was all smiles after being separated from her husband said she was never fearful for husband’s life.
“Well, I have not been too worried because I also rowed across the Atlantic so I know what it’s like.” She said she was in constant communication with her husband throughout his journey and was confident he would make it.
Excerpts from Stein Hoff’s journal available at www.staratlantic.com [ please note: link provided by LOSP web site. This link replaces the original (www.oceanrowing.com) in Stabroek News which was non functional. ]
August 14th. Day 5.
My position at 12 GMT today was N3615 W1018 with 399 miles to the first way-point. Light breeze from NW, 1-2 metre swell, 20 degrees, cloudy, barometer 1031.
Heavy rowing due to side waves, rolls 10-20 degrees each way almost all the time, also while I am lying here on my back trying to write this. The boat feels best when I am rowing and it has some speed. Rowed nearly 3 hours before the observations and lunch. I have put some clothes to soak in Biotex, Hung up others to dry, and for the first time put on night-clothes to sleep instead of my rowing gear, which I have had on so far to get it to dry.
Long, good rowing session last night. I felt in top form, like a kid on an exciting journey! I suppose that is what I am...I remember how I dreamed about expeditions when I was small, drew boats that could take me both over and under water.(but they were much bigger than this little craft). As I rowed, I listened to a CD with Roger Whittaker, his many ballads about love and sailing/travelling were just what I needed.
Two ships spotted yesterday, and one this morning, but the visibility is poor, so there are probably more nearby on their way between the Mediterranean and America.Two black pilot whales, about 3-4 metres long, rolled slowly past me this morning, also saw some sea-swallows with a web-like pattern on their heads.
My health is better than I feared it might be. I have only taken a tablet (Celebra 400mg) for muscle strains on Saturday and Sunday, and some for heartburn (Nexium 20mg) the first few days. Now I feel I am in control and I am really enjoying myself! Well, I must admit that a rowing session in the middle of the night is quite tough, especially when there are some aches and pains here and there, and the bed at last feels warm....The pain I do have is in my left upper arm (the largest waves have been from starboard, so more strain on this side), lower part of my neck, small of the back and surprisingly behind my right knee. The blisters on my hands sting a bit, otherwise I am fine, and have no reason for complaints!
Best wishes from Stein and Star Atlantic 11
Saturday, 24th.August day 15
500 nautical miles!
12 GMT position: N3132 W1428. Temp 27/22, barometer 1048. Light breeze from NE, calm sea, 1/8 cloud. 268 n.miles to WP2, 34 n.miles past 24 hours.
This is a day I have referred to in interviews before I left. “I will be glad when two weeks are over and I am well on the way, and boat, equipment body and soul are all functioning well”. And now two weeks have gone, I am fine and am very pleased. Today I have gone over 500 miles from Lisbon, and shall open a present from Elisabeth. I’ll do that at sun-set, the most beautiful time of day. I finished the wine at lunch, and don’t intend to open another carton for a couple of days, but I will light a little candle in the cock-pit, and think about my loved ones.
I enjoy all the greetings in the guest-book. Several members of the Jacob family in Kristiansand and the Goddard family in Barbados have sent me a greeting, so I must thank them specially. It was also fun to hear from Inge, fishing at Udvaar at the same time that I was listening to a folk-song from the same area. And to Carlos and family in Lisbon: fine if I can inspire you to take unusual challenges. To Svein and Gwynn; thanks for CDs with Grapelli and Reinhardt.
Great music! I’m not sure what music is best to row to, depends on my mood and the weather. Songs by Krag and Halvorsen were very good for the morning, and later I have had the Beatles take me on a nostalgic trip to my youth. One of the very good things about this trip is the time to listen to both music and books.
After an almost unbearable heat yesterday, I slept an hour late in the evening, then rowed. Nature has not been too exciting today, partly because I have rigged up my shelter from the sun, and I don’t see so much. Just a few birds and another flying fish which jumped up and sailed away from me. So now I start the day by looking round the deck to see if there are any fish which have misjudged and landed on deck during the night. If I had a lantern on, this would attract fish, but that needs current and I also don’t want to attract attention. I prefer to keep looking out, and use my radar-detector and my senses. Big ships can be heard from a good distance, especially when there is not much wind like today. Yesterday it was in fact so quiet that I could only hear a weak, high-frequency sound - my own tinnitus!
Continued week-end greetings from Stein.
September Day 26
1220 GMT pos: N2614 W2132 Near gale from NE, very rough and irregular sea., light cloud cover. Temp 25/23, 480 n.miles to way-point 3, 44 n.miles past 24 hours.
This is a day which I will not look back on with much pleasure. It has been very uncomfortable since 2-3 o’clock in the morning, with heavy rolling, sudden movements, a lot of water on deck, and several times also in the cock-pit. When I am sitting at the oars, I can avoid the worst hits and splashes, but I have to rest a bit also. Several times there has been a large wave break over the stern above the cabin, and I had to close the ventilator in the cabin roof after a splash managed to get through it.
Early this morning the heaven was black and a bit frightening, but the cloud layer is now thinner, and the barometer (if that is anything to depend on) doesn’t forecast any seriously bad weather. On a day like this I just have to survive, and plans of baking, shaving and clothes-washing are all postponed to another day.
Taking photos is also difficult and risky (at least for the camera), but I have been visited several times by a tropic bird, and I just had to get it on film. It is one of the most beautiful sea-birds, quite big, a bit like a large (By now Stein’s laptop computer had packed up and he was forced to telephone his wife with reports at $1.50 per minute.)
