COMING from Europe, bathing with piranhas and crocodiles does not seem to be the most tempting of leisure activities!

There are, after all, countless horror movies about foolhardy tourists dying horrible deaths in the dangerous South-American jungles. So how did we end up enjoying a relaxing swim among these seemingly so ferocious animals?

A work placement at the Guyana Chronicle gave us, two students from Norway and Germany, the unique chance to go on a trip into the Iwokrama Rainforest Reserve.

The Chronicle kindly agreed to send us to the reserve last week to report on a new volunteer project. This gave us our first rainforest experiences, presenting us with examples of the unparalleled wildlife, flora and fauna and general splendour of a virtually untouched jungle.

One of the many beautiful scenes from the Iwokrama Field Station.
We spent five days in Iwokrama, a vast expanse of Amazon rainforest covering 360,000 hectares, and home to more than 7 000 people from different Amerindian communities.

Even the six-hour journey to the reserve seemed a little adventure in its own right to us. Although the road from Georgetown to the nature reserve has vastly improved, the smooth tar roads of Georgetown and its outskirts soon gave way to dirt roads of ever increasing roughness.

For the final stretch, a speedboat took us up the Essequibo River, soon revealing the newly built roundhouse which has become the heart of the Iwokrama field station.

Built by Amerindians, it contains the kitchen, shop and library as well as a large recreational area, and is the dominating feature of the forest clearing that serves as field station.

The roundhouse is flanked by little thatched-roof huts, serving as quarters for tourists as well as Iwokrama staff. One of them was to be our home for the five days, and we slept peacefully, surrounded by the relaxing sounds from the forest.

In the mornings, however, we were awakened by the loud screeching of the green macaws circling the clearing. We also spotted some eagles and deer, but when we went on the 'Screaming Pina' trail that winds its way through the surrounding forest, we were less lucky.

While the guides passed on fascinating knowledge of local flora and fauna, such as the medical use of different vines, the animals had made themselves scarce.

We did not even see the 'Screaming Pinas', the loud birds after which the trail was named. Maybe all the media presence made them shy?

But the nature of Iwokrama is only part of the picture. The Iwokrama Centre is also associated with thirteen surrounding Amerindian communities, one of which is Surama.

We stayed in the friendly little village for one night, and were given the choice between the comfortable guesthouse and a traditional hammock. We opted for the latter to complete the true Amerindian experience.

Far away from the din of urban centres we were treated to a crystal clear night sky in its full star-speckled glory, unclouded by bright city lights.

Our conversations with Surama's hospitable inhabitants soon turned to interesting a discussion of their local language, Makushi, and efforts to preserve it for future generations.

Heart-touched by the obvious dedication to their own heritage and refreshed by the tranquil surroundings, we continued on our way.

Travelling on dusty roadways, we eventually came back into the Iwokrama forest, where we stopped for one of the highlights of our tour; the canopy walkway.

Stretching along four platforms over 130 metres, it gave us the unique chance to see the Iwokrama forest from a completely different perspective.

Going along the swaying, Indiana Jones-style hang-bridges in 30-meter high treetops can be rather daunting, but all doubts were washed away when we saw the magnificent jungle vista.

The next day we got the chance to see Iwokrama from yet another perspective, as we climbed Turtle Mountain.

The literally breathtaking trek up the 956 feet mountain takes about one hour. It is advised to only attempt the trip if a ranger accompanies you.

The steep ascent up the mountain is rewarded by an impressive panorama view of lusciously green forest canopy, with the Essequibo River snaking its way across the horizon.

After this climb, on the evening of our final day, we went for a swim in the Essequibo, blissfully unaware of the piranhas that inhabit it.

We had, however, been warned of some of the other creatures found in the river, including a two meter long Black Cayman, stingrays, electric eels, slappkukk snakes and anacondas.

We had spotted the crocodile earlier, and therefore ensured that a ranger was keeping his watchful eyes on us.

We felt very brave indeed bathing with all these impressive animals. However, when the ranger later told us that there are plenty of piranhas in the water, this hardiness quickly turned to shudders.

But now we certainly know what daredevil story we will impress our friends at home with when we return.