Mick Jagger has been there; so too several Caribbean Prime Ministers and Guyana’s First Lady Uma Jagdeo. Baganara Island Resort has been open for seven years but has now achieved pole position amongst the Essequibo ‘Eco’ resorts. It is a man-made island paradise but ‘eco’ it is not. A nature trail is a feature but you come here to sunbathe not seek out flora and fauna.

Carved out of nature, the resort has most of the creature comforts of the modern world; running hot water, flushing toilets and ice being chief amongst them. Eleven years ago, it would have been hard to believe that this piece of Guyanese rainforest could be transformed into a fully fledged resort. But the Correia family had the vision and the money to carry it out. Clearing, draining, bringing tens of thousands of tons of sand from mid-river to the island before building a central house that more than passes muster as a piece of quasi colonial architecture. That is the fulcrum of Baganara.

All eating takes place there, much relaxing in the very comfortable seating arrangements and not a little drinking too.

But there is more; guests are accommodated in seventeen rooms built and kept to near international standards. Hot running water, courtesy of a solar panel, nearly all day long. Fans that cool when the river breezes do not suffice. Beds that erred a bit on the soft side for my liking.

The main beach is long and not unlike a beach anywhere in the world. Pedalos, kayaks and a jet ski ready for usage. The latter somewhat of a nuisance and an obvious pollutant of the water around paradise. Is it really vital?

But, for the more discerning, there are quieter beaches with their own gazebos and other shelter. Some of those, it must be said, in need of refurbishment. Baganara generally is well kept and well kempt. But after seven years open to the public, it is showing some signs of fraying at the edges. A lick of paint here and there would not go amiss.

The resort airstrip makes it very accessible. Just twenty minutes flying time from Ogle and even less from Timehri. On my Sunday, two planes arriving disgorging upwards of twenty passengers who had already ‘done’ Kaiteur Falls that morning.

The alternative is a rather longer jet or other boat trip along the mighty Essequibo to Bartica and Baganara. That, in itself, is worth any entrance money as you bypass riverine community after community. This river is mighty but it is also magnificent. You get the feeling of raw power as it tries to control your progress up and downstream.

You’re never alone in the modern world with an internet connection; not even in Baganara where a satellite connection has just been established. As you bask in this tropical paradise, you can take a break to catch up with your business in their boardroom or simply relax in their benab. It is ideal for corporate groups on a ‘brain-storming’ session, for families on a short break, for couples seeking themselves but less so for individuals. Communality is not to the fore.

But be warned, all paradises have flaws. The food is not quite as up to scratch at Baganara as it might be. More adventure called for in that department. The family groups can dominate and make the place a trifle noisy and whoever told the management that constant muzak was needed for international tourism was wrong. You don’t head for solitude to be greeted by Barry White tracks played too loudly!

Overall, Baganara is a jewel in the Guyana tourist crown. Try to sample it. This is their low season. Evergreen Tours and Abdul will do you deals. Call them. We enjoyed. You should too.